The ART of cornrows: How cornrows are shaping modern hair trends
Often favoured for its versatility and low maintenance, the cornrow style is getting the stardom it deserves. Evolving from regular straight lines to intricate designs and styles, this integral African hairstyle serves as a form of self-expression, social identification and storytelling.
What are cornrows?
Cornrows hold great cultural importance in many African societies, serving as a form of self expression and identity. Braid patterns vary between regions and tribes, often signifying sociocultural aspects, such as a person’s community, age, marital status, wealth, rank, social position and culture. It is achieved through a detailed and precise braiding technique that involves weaving hair close to the scalp in tight, small sections.
The process starts with parting the hair into clean rows, and braiding each section by crossing strands of hair while adding more hair as you move along the scalp, creating the distinct raised pattern. It can be as simple or as detailed as desired. Cornrows are also a protective style, reducing hair breakage and promoting growth, lasting weeks with proper care.
Celebrity influence
Stylists, influencers and celebrities have a massive impact on social trends — and cornrows are no exception. Popularly, entertainers like Alicia Keys, Beyoncé, Solange and Sho Madjozi have had an influence on different cornrow styles gaining popularity in the 21st century. Beyoncé’s jaw-dropping waist-length braided hairdo on her 2016 album cover, Lemonade, caused a social media frenzy as the hairstyle, dubbed “lemonade braids”, was an iconic look on the global sensation. The cornrow hairdo can be freestyled as long as it falls to one side, as the lemonade braids proved.
Likewise, Alicia Keys has become somewhat of a hip-hop poster child for braids and cornrows. Since the beginning of her career, Alicia Keys has worn braids and cornrows with pride, and popularised zig-zag cornrows in the early 2000s. She once again served as an inspiration with one of her curved cornrow styles coming back full circle, dubbed online as “Alicia Keys braids”.
Popular cornrow styles
Cornrows have become a go-to hairstyle for its timelessness. With a variety of patterns, designs and braid thickness, the classic straight back cornrows continue to be the most iconic cornrow style. However, with the evolution of cornrows, there are so many ways to adapt the style:
Freestyle cornrows
This style take the form of mesmerising patterns of twirls and swirls. Popular African musicians, including Rema, Tyla, Amarae and Ayra Starr, have been wearing freestyle braids, only furthering the style’s growth. However, freestyle cornrows are more than just a trendy look. Like any other braided style, it can be used as an opportunity to tap into a new level of creativity and self-expression, blending modern style with individuality.
Fulani braids
Having deep cultural roots originating from the Fulani people across West Africa, particularly in regions such as Mali, Senegal, Guinea and Nigeria, Fulani braids symbolised tribal identity, marital status, wealth and personal beauty. Known for its length and detailed designs that often incorporate beads, rings and other accessories, this style features braids that hang or loop on the sides of the head. The incorporation of beads is historically significant, as they were used as currency or indicators of social status.
As a distinctive hairstyle, Fulani braids are characterised by a unique central braid running down the middle of the head, often bordered by thinner braids on either side. However, most Fulani braid styles include a mix of straight-back cornrows and free-hanging braids at the back. The style has gained widespread popularity, thanks to celebrities like Rihanna and Alicia Keys.
Stitched cornrows
Stitch cornrows are a modern variation of regular straight back cornrows, known for their clean, sleek and precise appearance. The style gets its name from the unique ‘stitched’ effect achieved through the detailed lines that separate each braid. The sections of hair are parted in such a way that the scalp is exposed in neat rows, giving the style a polished finish. Stitched cornrows have become increasingly popular and adored for its simple yet satisfying look.
Curved cornrows
As a creative version of classic cornrows, this style features braids that follow a curved or meandering pattern, creating a visually appealing look. The curved look adds texture and a unique design, which makes it popular for being both bold and fashionable. This style is achieved by changing the direction of the braid when weaving to create circular or curved patterns along the scalp, resulting in swirls, loops or curves within the cornrows. Similar to freestyle cornrows, curved cornrows are a popular choice for showcasing originality and expressing creativity.