Cooking up dreams from Sullivan Street, Steenberg

From the heart of Steenberg on the Cape Flats to the kitchens of the world’s restaurants, Chef Leroy Halford has built a career that proves that hard work, humility, and passion can take you anywhere — even from Sullivan Street to serving royalty.

“You learn a lot about someone when you share a meal,” Mr Halford said, recalling a quote that has stayed with him throughout his 22-year culinary journey. “Food connects us. It tells stories about who we are, our culture, and our traditions.” 

Today, he is a group executive chef, overseeing several restaurants across Cape Town.

Despite his impressive résumé, he laughs and admits, “Hand on heart, I don’t cook at home — my wife cooks.” 

Among the many South African dishes he has introduced to international diners are malva pudding, koeksisters, vetkoek, and bobotie. 

“I even put malva pudding on the menu in Vietnam,” he said.

His career highlight came when his restaurant was named the second-best in Saudi Arabia for two consecutive years, in 2022 and 2023, at the Time Out Riyadh Restaurant Awards.

“That’s when I decided it was time for the next challenge,” said Mr Halford.

After getting married earlier this year, Mr Halford said he was determined to be closer to his wife and two sons. 

Although he thrived in the pressure and pace of international kitchens, he said the distance from his family was difficult. 

“I missed my son, Leroy Junior, terribly. But that longing became my motivation to make a success of my career.” 

One of the hardest moments of his life came when his mother passed away seven years ago while he was working at sea. “I was five days away from docking in Hamburg when I got the news. I made it home just in time for her funeral,” he said. “I thought about staying home, but I knew that if I really wanted to make my mum proud, I had to carry on.”

While grieving and missing home, he took a break from the restaurant world and became a private chef for a Kenyan businessman. “I was grateful because it allowed me to travel and see some of the most amazing places,” he said. 

He soon started running the businessman’s hotel in Nairobi, and later he was headhunted by members of the Saudi Arabian royal family to head their new restaurant, Buttermilk, in Riyadh. 

“The three sisters and I created something wonderful, and I’ll cherish those memories forever,” he said.

Mr Halford's journey began in Sullivan Street, Steenberg — a place that shaped both his palate and his principles, he said.  “You learn early on to appreciate what you have, to work with what’s in front of you, and to never forget where you come from. Growing up there helped me understand that food isn’t just about technique or fine china — it’s memory, comfort, and connection.”

After matriculating from Grassdale High School in Grassy Park in 2005, Leroy went straight into the kitchen, joining a restaurant at the V&A Waterfront under executive chef Fernando Roman.

Starting as a commis chef, he worked his way up through the levels — junior sous chef, senior sous chef, executive head chef — eventually leading teams of over 50 people.

He later worked at a restaurant in Mouille Point, helped open another in Clifton, and gained international experience with Celebrity Cruises before moving to the Middle East.

He credits those who believed in him, including his mentor Fernando Roman and Ben Watkin, who he said created the group executive chef position especially to bring him back home after years abroad.

“He (Fernando) saw things in me that I didn’t see in myself. He’s a great leader and a real people person. He’s the reason I get to stay home this time — for Nadia, for LJ, for Adam, and even for Diesel and Bentley. I am now enjoying the fruits of my labour.”

Mr Halford said his mother remains his greatest inspiration. 

“She taught me most of what I know — that the main ingredients in every dish are love and respect for your ingredients,” he said.

Coming from humble beginnings, he remembers feeling intimidated by other trainee chefs with their expensive knives and tools. 

“I wanted to give up, but my first boss told me, ‘I see something in you. Stick with me and I’ll make you famous.’”

Now, with confidence in his craft, Mr Halford wants to inspire young people from the Cape Flats. “It doesn’t matter where you come from. With hard work, humility, and passion, you can achieve anything. Say ‘yes, Chef’ today so that one day, they’ll be calling you Chef.”

When asked what advice he’d give his younger self, he said: “Don’t be afraid. Keep pushing forward, no matter the challenges. I’d do it all over again.”

“Also, never trust a skinny chef,” he said. 

For Mr Halford, every dish tells a story — one that began in Steenberg and continues to inspire others to dream beyond their circumstances.

 And wherever his journey takes him, there will always be a little bit of Sullivan Street in every bite.